Ileach – Islay: "The Queen of the Isles"

A journey to Islay almost invariably sets off by ferry from the little port of Kennacraig situated on the Mull of Kintyre. A good part of the roughly three hour long trip on the ferry takes you through West Loch Tarbert which is also called the Loch of the Swans in the tale of the "Fate of the Children of Lir". In this ancient Irish legend, the four children of Lir are transformed into swans by their jealous stepmother and cursed by her to spend hundreds of years in the stormy waters around Ireland and Scotland.

When leaving the confines of the Loch, the ferry passes the northern tip of Gigha Island - "The Isle of the Gods". To the Northwest, the silhouette of the Paps of Jura can be made out a while before Islay comes into full view.

Shortly after passing Gigha Island, the ferry turns either to the south coast of Islay to land at the sheltered Port Ellen or to the north-eastern shore at the tiny Port Askaig opposite Jura.

It is here at Askaig that the treacherous Sound of Islay separates the two islands. Some of the more daring inhabitants of Islay actually risk the dangerous waters to go "drift-diving" for oysters during which the divers let themselves be carried along at high speeds by the strong currents in the Sound. The oysters they recover command high prices of course.

Part 2 (of 6)