Ileach Islay: "The Queen
of the Isles"
Part 3
Islay has a long and well recorded history reaching from Neolithic times to
the period of the Irish-Scottish kingdom of Dal Riada of which Islay was a part. Later,
Islay became centre for the Lordship of the Isles after the Norse were defeated and driven
of the Island by the 12th-century Prince, Somerled, whose descendants became
the hereditary "Lords of the Isles".
For hundreds of years the new Lords were
initiated on the larger island in Loch Finlaggan, Eilean Mor, in the north-east of Islay
where they were handed their signs of office, a white staff and the sword of their
ancestors. The Lord of the Isles held council on the smaller island in the Loch, hence its
name "Island of Council".

The part of Islay north-east of Port Askaig and Loch
Finlaggan is only partially accessible by a single track road, which ends at the
Bunnahabhain Distillery after passing the Caol Ila Distillery, offering delightful views
of the Paps of Jura opposite the Sound. The "Paps" by the way, being an older
and somewhat ribald word of Scandinavian origin meaning "breasts". It would be
about a days journey on foot to reach the northernmost tip of the island, Rubh
a Màil from Bunnnahabhain. This wild region of Islay is naturally a home to such
wildlife as the red deer.
When heading south from
Port Askaig instead, one comes to the hilliest area of the island beginning just south of
Port Askaig and reaching all the way to Ardtalla, where the first road is eventually
reached. In between lie rough and rocky hills including Islays highest point, Beinn
Bheigeir, rising to almost 500 meters. The coastline of this area is equally rough, a
haven for sea birds and a number of seals.
Part 4 (of 6)
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