Ileach – Islay: "The Queen of the Isles"

Part 4

Below Beinn Bheigeir, at Trudernish Point on Claggain Bay, the remains of an ancient "glass fort" can be found. These forts were made by burning enough wood on the outside of the stone walls to turn the stone into rock-hard glass which was impossible to climb.

Taking the road from Ardtalla, one soon reaches the Kildalton Church and the famous Kildalton Cross, the best preserved high cross in Scotland, both dating back to around 800 A.D.

Even further along this road begins Islay highest concentration in whisky. Lined up one after the other are the islands three heavyweight distilleries, Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig.

Each distillery being beautifully situated directly on the shore, a trademark of Islay’s distilleries. The first, Ardbeg, has just begun distilling again after being silent for a number of years. Continuing west along the road, one reaches Lagavulin where the ruins of Dunyveg Castle can be seen, the former stronghold of the Lordship of the Isles. Next comes Laphroaig, the youngest of the three, with it’s reputation for producing the peatiest whisky anywhere.

After Laphroaig, one finally comes to another larger town, Port Ellen on Kilnaughton Bay, the other port where the mainland ferry arrives. There was once another distillery here, but it was turned into a malting factory to supply other distilleries years ago. Kilnaughton Bay also boasts a fine beach behind which the rugged Oa peninsula rises towards the sea, ending in rocky cliffs so high, that sometimes the aeroplanes heading towards the airport to the north fly below your viewpoint. Illicit stills and smugglers once abounded in this rough place.

At the tip of the Oa stands a monument for the sailors of an American vessel shipwrecked in the first World War, merely representative for the many shipwrecks on this coastline. From this southernmost viewpoint on Islay, the northern coast of Antrim and Raithlin Island on Irelands coast can be seen on a clear day.

Part 5 (of 6)